Gardening Articles
INTERSECTIONAL OR ITOH PEONIES
Intersectional (or Itoh) peonies are the hottest new addition to the peony world. After nearly 40 years of failed attempts, plant breeder Toichi Itoh finally succeeded in crossing a tree peony (shrub type) with a herbaceous or lactiflora (dormant).
So--Are Intersectional Peonies Really An Improvement Over Existing Forms?
The blooms on most intersectionals are held nicely above the foliage and add vibrant new colors to the peony spectrum, particularly for those of us in climates where tree peonies do not easily grow. This includes golden yellow, lavender/violet, and multi-colored varieties that are rarely seen in regular herbaceous or lactiflora types. In addition, the beautiful lobed foliage on intersectional peonies remains green and attractive through early fall. Another nice feature of this group is that they often have more than one bud per stem, so the bloom season can be as long as five weeks as the buds open successively. Finally, intersectional peonies are much more reliable in Montana than tree peonies because the plant becomes completely dormant in the winter months; therefore, the buds and stems are far less susceptible to winter damage than those on a tree peony.
However, in some cases new doesn’t always mean distinctly better. The earliest forms of intersectionals were fairly unrefined compared to varieties being introduced now. For example, Yellow Crown, also known as Hidden Treasure, hides its bloom down in the foliage. Therefore, its value as a landscape plant is extremely minimal. Other varieties that I have grown, while attractive, certainly don’t exceed the beauty of less expensive herbaceous peonies that are commonly available.
Noteworthy Varieties
There are several intersectionals that are notably exceptional and absolutely well worth your investment. Some of these are Bartzella, Garden Treasure, First Arrival, Joanna Marlene, Kopper Kettle, Hillary, and Canary Brilliants. All have characteristics that make them “must have” peonies and well deserving of showcase status in your flowerbed.
Caring for Intersectional Peonies
Intersectional peonies are vigorous and rapid growers, much more so than tree peonies and often more so than herbaceous or lactiflora types. Within a few years, a good-sized root division will produce several blooms and in three to four years may become the highlight of your garden. These peonies require the same care as any other (see care discussion in FAQ) and will thrive with good drainage and in full sun.
Propagation of Intersectionals
Dividing any peony is not easy. Dividing an intersectional is even more of a challenge because of its woody root. Division definitely requires a handsaw or a small electric saw. Usually a heavy knife is not adequate for the task. In my earliest attempts to divide an Itoh with a knife, my fingers were always at peril. Also, as with any peony, it is easier to divide a younger plant (less than four years old). However, herein lies the dilemma. Most peonies don’t begin to develop into their fullest glory until they are at least several years old. Therefore, unless one propagates and sells peonies, it is often counterproductive to divide your plant. In addition, while older intersectionals produce larger roots with more eyes, they often do not yield significantly larger numbers of divisions. In any event, division of intersectionals requires much preplanning and close examination of the root in relationship to the eyes to make sure that when the cut is made, you end up with a viable plant.
Tissue-Cultured Intersectionals
Tissue-cultured plants represent a tradeoff between a lower price for what has up until recently been a very expensive investment and the chance that your plant will not quite be what you expected it to be.
Despite claims to the otherwise, tissue-cultured plants are not always exact copies of their parent. So be cautioned that the blooms or other characteristics on these plants may not be identical to those of the original parent and in some case will be inferior replicas. For the average gardener who will likely be unfamiliar with the appearance of the original, this may not matter and a fair approximation will be good enough.
Additionally, you need to be aware that tissue-cultured peonies commonly sold are often much smaller than those from root divisions and will take longer to produce blooming plants, at least one year and sometimes two.
Why Buy a Private Stock Intersectional Peony
All of my peonies have been propagated by root division from the original cross and have been purchased from specialty nurseries that take great pride in selling the genuine version. In the case of Garden Treasure, my starts come from Hollingsworth Nursery, which bred this beautiful variety.
Any plant you receive from me will be a large root division with numerous eyes, will come directly from my own stock, and will be fairly priced. These plants are guaranteed to be true to form and absolutely as fresh from the field as they can possibly be. You will not be disappointed!
ORIENPET LILIES
What Is an Orienpet Lily?
Orienpets are some of the showiest and most fragrant of the most recent lily hybrids. A cross between a trumpet lily and an oriental, Orienpets appear to be more hardy and adaptable than either parent. For those of you who have grown Stargazer or Casa Blanca lilies in Montana with disappointing results, the Orienpets offer hope that you can grow big fragrant lilies that will reliably return year after year. Neither trumpet or oriental lilies thrive in Montana gardens because they usually do not have time in the Fall to build up an adequate reserve for next year’s blooms. Oftentimes, they will dwindle in size over the course of a few years until they die out completely.
Because of their increased vigor, Orienpets, particularly those bred in Canada or the northern United States, seem to retain their staying power and become more of a true perennial here. That said, because of their parentage, Orienpets will never be as absolutely hardy as Asiatics, which represent the gold standard for cold tolerance and reliability. However, I have grown and field-tested numerous of these beautiful new lilies for several years and have found that many increase in size over time and even slowly reproduce.
What an Orienpet Isn’t
A few companies market Orienpets as tree lilies, so called because they have the potential to grow up to 6 feet tall with very thick woody stems. However, like all other temperate zone lilies, Orienpets become completely dormant every fall with no live top growth remaining. It also should be noted that many Orienpet lilies will often not grow as tall in Montana as they might in milder climates such as the Northwest.
Planting and Growing Tips
- All lilies like a lot of sun and a well-drained soil. Be sure to mix in plenty of high-grade compost with your lilies when you plant them. And try to avoid planting them in extremely heavy soils that are slow to drain.
- Fertilize your lilies in the spring with a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote. Also, because much of our soil east of the Divide is somewhat alkaline, you may need to supplement with an amendment containing iron and sulfur.
- Lilies do not require daily watering, but when watering be sure to water deeply enough to reach the bulb’s roots. Avoid wetting the leaves if possible. Excessive watering may cause your bulb to rot.
- Orienpets should be planted as a bare bulb in the spring only or as well-rooted pot plants up to about the 1st of September. They should not be planted as a bulb in the fall because they will not have time to adequately reestablish their root system.
- After Orienpets finish blooming, which will be around the 3rd week of August, be sure to immediately cut off the seed heads to allow the plant to fully place its energy production on building up the bulb for the next season. However, leave as much green foliage as possible until the plant yellows and becomes dormant in the fall.
- Mulch your Orienpet in late fall after the ground freezes hard with loose straw or wood chips up to 6 or 8 inches in depth. This will help ensure that your plant will come back and bloom beautifully the next year.
Proven Performers in Helena, Montana
I have grown all of the following locally for at least five consecutive years, and each variety has reached its listed catalog height and continues to add bud count as the plant matures. In addition, all have shown the ability to reproduce, albeit somewhat slowly increasing in numbers. I am particularly fond of Conca D’Or and Northern Carillon, both of which frequently appear as favorites in the North American Lily Society Popularity poll.
- Conca D’ Or
- Northern Carillon
- Easter Morn
- American Spirit
- Leslie Woodriff
- Scheherazade
Why Buy a Private Stock Orienpet Lily?
I sell only potted plants that have been extremely well rooted in under field conditions. Because these lilies are not greenhouse grown, they are hardened off thoroughly and will bloom this year in sync with their natural growing season. All of my plants are thoroughly checked for (viral vectors) aphids and botrytis, which are controlled organically Any variety I sell has been or is currently being tested outdoors in my test plots to determine its reliability in Montana.
I guarantee that the plants you buy from Private Stock Perennials will be full of vigor and primed to reach their potential this year and for many years to come.
2010 PEONY OBSERVATIONS
Following are my notes on how some of my peony varieties performed in 2010. These are intended to provide my customers with honest insights about how some varieties perform from year to year. Some of the peonies are still so new that I am not yet offering them for sale, but you can look forward to them being offered for sale in future seasons.
In general, under the cool and rainy conditions we had last spring from late May through June, all peonies performed quite well. They much prefer such conditions to the high heat that we ocassionally see at that time of year. I saw no evidence of botrytis even under our cool moist conditions. I attribute some of that to my weekly spray program, in which I used a very effective organic spray containing a form of bacilus subtilis. A common trade name is Serenade. Finally, as a general observation, all peonies bloomed extremely late for a second straight year. The peak of my bloom was on July 4, which is highly unusual.
Observations about individual varieties follow:
- Amalia Olson--When in bloom, it was fantastic with big billowing double white flowers--and boy oh boy, is it fragrant! The flowers seem to stand quite well without staking. The plant is moderately vigorous and parts of the crown sometimes appear to die out in any given year.
- Bartzella--Had gorgeous 8-inch double yellow blooms and quite a bunch of them this year. While this is not as long-blooming as Garden Treasure, I really like the fullness of the flowers and the very upright foliage.
- Bev--New in 2010; the large semidouble pink blooms seemed to bloom for a very long time, nearly two weeks for each individual flower. Also, the foliage was the richest deep green of any variety I grow. I have high hopes for this one.
- Buckeye Belle--For several days during last spring it was an absolute knockout with its very rich dark red semidouble flowers. The plant retains its nice habit and foliage all season. It is not a long bloomer, however, and you'll be lucky to see it in bloom for a week to 10 days max.
- Candystripe--Its maroon foliage lasted the longest of any variety I grow, which is a very nice added feature. The size of the blooms is small and the numbers on each plant don't seem to be particularly high. Still, with its very long stems, highly unusual peppermint striping, and late late bloom season, it is well worth growing.
- Cherry Ruffles--Wow! Absolutely beautiful cherry red semidouble bloom this year that almost tends to full double. This one also seemed to be in bloom for a very long time. The plant is short and moderately vigorous for me. It has seemed to take a few extra season to really get established, but it is definitely a garden centerpiece once it gets going.
- Coral Sunset--As always, the bright coral pink blooms slowly fading to a creamy yellow made this one a knockout again. Coral Sunset definitely shows some susceptibility to iron deficiency that other varieties don't have. I did have to treat it with chelated iron during this wet cool spring to keep it green and healthy.
- First Arrival--New in 2010; another intersectional, it had lots and lots of semidouble blooms that is an attractive pink with a definite lavender hue. The foliage stayed a beautiful green all the way through late fall.
- Garden Lace--This remains one of my favorite singles; again very very floriferous with its beautiful soft pink flowers with a big poofy yellow center that fade to white. An excellent vigorous grower that's highly reliable.
- Lorelei--Definitely represents a color break with its dusky orange-red flowers that fade nicely to apricot. The medium-size blooms stand rigidly erect and have a pleasant spicy fragrance. This variety has been quite slow to become established and some individual plants have even died out on me. If you can develop a mature specimen, it'll definitely stand out in your garden.
- Old Faithful--Continues to be an extraordinary performer; I really like the very unique buds on this that look just like perfectly formed rose buds, then slowly unfurl and build into full bloom. With its extraordinarily rigid posture and great foliage, this one has never disappointed me. It is a slow grower for us as sellers but still makes a pretty decent specimen plant for gardeners after a couple of years in the ground. This one sold out instantly with customers who came out to view it in my gardens.
- White Frost--New in 2010, it looks to me like it will be a very nice double white. Its fragrance was sweet but spicy and the young plants were highly erect and upright. I look forward to how it will perform as a 3-year plant.
For additional discussion about peony varieties that are outstanding landscapers, go to the following link in the American Peony Society website: http://www.americanpeonysociety.org/awards/award-of-landscape-merit
SOMEWHAT DISAPPOINTING VARIETIES
- Petite Elegance--Touted as a very beautiful rose blend fading to cream, so far the rose color has not been very pronounced and it has faded very quickly. It also appears to be extra susceptible to iron deficiency. If it doesn't perform up to expectations in 2011, it will be a goner.
- Sugar n' Spice--This one receives high marks nationally but has been a bit disappointing for me. While I really like the foliage, very lush tropical looking leaves that stay green all season, the bloom size has not been nearly as big as it was declared to be and the flowers only last a short time, even for a peony. It does provide early color when most peonies are still yet to bloom.
MY ADMITTEDLY HIGHLY SUBJECTIVE TOP TEN LIST OF PEONIES (that I've personally grown)
- Old Faithful
- White Cap
- Bartzella
- Amalia Olson
- Coral Sunset
- Early Scout
- Cherry Ruffles
- The Fawn
- Garden Lace
- First Arrival
Canadian Haskap--A "Blueberry for Montana"?
They have a sweet tangy flavor, they're very rich in healthy antioxidants, AND they're blue! Sure sounds like a blueberry.
But while Canadian Haskap berries are definitely NOT blueberries, they do share many of the same favorable characteristics as a blueberry--and better yet, they potentially offer much much more to Montana gardeners.
First, and most importantly, Canadian haskap are widely adaptable to many soil types, especially those tending toward an alkaline pH. What this means is you actually have a fighting chance to successfully grow and harvest berries, which (pardon the pun) is almost always a fruitless effort with blueberries in most areas of Montana.
Canadian Haskap, which are related to honeysuckles, further offer other desirable features, such as extreme winter hardiness (to minus 50 Fahrenheit, and high resistance to late spring freezes (will still bear fruit even after spring temperatures fall as low as 15 degress F while they are in bloom).
These shrubs grow about 4 to 6 feet tall and will begin producing between 5 and 10 pounds of fruit per plant after 3 to 5 years in the ground. Bred and trialed extensively at Saskatchewan University in central Canada, several new varieties have met and exceeded all expectations relative to their tangy sweet flavor and melt-in-your-mouth goodness. Indeed their taste has been favorably compared to both raspberries and blueberries. They are good to eat fresh as well as used in jellies, muffins, and even ice cream.
The most highly regarded cultivars to date, Borealis and Tundra, are now being propagated and sold to home gardeners and commercial orchards alike.
If you are one of those enterprising gardeners who like to try new plant varieties, please contact me. This spring I will be offering a limited number of year old Canadian haskap plugs sold in minimum lots of two. One of the new haskap varieties will be included along with a pollinizer plant, which is necesary for them to bear fruit. Basically I will be selling these plants close to my cost just so a few area growers can try this intriguing new fruit and help determine what its potential will be.
Because these plants are so new to me, I make no guarantees regarding your results; however, based on all that I have read and my discussions with Canadian growers, I am quite confident that you may be very pleasantly surprised with the results and I will absolutely guarantee that these plants are much better adapted to most of Montana than a blueberry.
For more information about Canadian haskap, go to the following link: www.haskap.ca.
Good luck and happy gardening!
Growing Great Hosta
Hostas are extremely popular, hardy perennials grown primarily for the gorgeous foliage. They are easy-to-grow shade-loving plants and are quite adaptable to a wide range of soils.
Plant Size and Shape
Hosta generally reach full maturity in 2 to 5 years, and growth rates vary widely depending on type. Often the very large varieties are slower growers than their smaller relatives, but make spectacular specimens when fully mature. Conversely, the miniatures grow to only a few inches tall and may be best adapted to rock garden situations.
Leaf Color and Texture
Hosta leaves may be a solid color in blue, green, gold, or yellow shades. The blue-leafed hosta is actually a green leaf coated with a wax that makes it appear blue. The wax tends to melt following intense sun exposure, so blue hosta are best adapted to deeper shade where there is little or no direct sunlight. Variegated leaves may include a combination of lighter and darker shades of color in the leaf. "Medio-variegated" leaves show a light color in the center of the leaf, which may be white, gold, yellow, or light green. "Marginally variegated" leaves show a light color on the edge of the leaf. Leaves that are thick and stiff are termed "rugose" or said to have a "heavy substance." Such leaves are considered to be more slug resistant.
Flowers
All hosta bloom in summer with spikes of small lavender to white lily-like flowers. A few varieties, particularly some of the more recent introductions, may have fairly showy flowers.
Shade/Sun Requirements
Hosta are definitely shade tolerant plants and grow best in an exposure with a few hours of morning sun and afternoon shade or in a dappled sun/shade environment. Some cultivars will tolerate some afternoon sun, although plants grown in full afternoon sun will show signs of marginal burning on leaf tips. In general, blue-leafed hostas prefer more shade while gold, yellow, and white-leafed hosta will tolerate more sun.
Soil Preparation
Hosta grow best in rich organic soil. A loamy soil type may not need the addition of organic matter, but few of us are so lucky as to garden in ideal soil and will need to add organic amendments. The recommended soil is well drained, has a slightly acid pH, and is enriched both with nutrients and organic matter.
When making a new hosta bed, cultivate to the depth of about one foot. Apply 6 inches of organic matter and till it into the bed. Materials such as compost, leaf mold, well-rotted compost, peat moss, and municipal sludge products such as Milorganite may be used.
The planting hole should be dug about a foot deep and the width of the hole should be one and a half times the expected mature size of the clump. Most hosta roots will grow and spread horizontally, so a large, wide hole is best.
Fertilizer
A balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 5-10-5 can be applied in spring just after the foliage emerges and again in July. I also prefer organic sources simply because they release nutrients slowly and improve soil tilth as well. Do not fertilize plants after early July because they need to harden off their new growth before fall freezes. Hosta definitely like to be consistently fed to attain optimal growth.
Water
Water is very important for optimal growth. During the growing season, hosta prefer a soil that remains evenly moist but is not, of course, waterlogged. A deep watering is best, after which the soil is allowed to dry somewhat--but should never become bone dry. While hosta may sometimes be touted as drought tolerant, they in fact are absolutely not and their growth may be checked for an entire season if they are allowed to completely dry out for any extended amount of time.
Hosta Pests
Slugs and snails are the most common pest affecting hosta. They eat small round holes in the leaves. Look for silvery slime trails in garden beds to determine whether slugs are present. Thin-leafed hosta and those with leaves growing close to the ground are most susceptible to slug injury. Because Montana generally has a low humidity and limited amounts of rainfall during summertime, hosta are not a major issue here. Clean cultivation around plants is often enough to keep slugs at bay in this region.
Deer can eat all of your hosta in one evening. Ten-foot fences are the only reliable method for controlling deer predation. Gardeners may also use commericial deer repellants, which provide mixed results.
Hosta Virus
Hosta can suffer from viral infections. Other than odd stipling on leaves, the only other indication that your hosta may be suffering from viral infection is that they simply lose their vigor and don't thrive no matter where they are placed in your garden. It is always best to buy your hosta starts from nurseries that sell virus-indexed plants that are certified free of disease.
Top Performers in Montana
There are literally hundreds, if not thousands of hosta varieties, and new introductions coming out all the time--so I certainly have not grown or tested most of them. However, the following have always performed very well for me here in Montana:
- Sum and Substance
- Blue Angel
- Gold Standard
- Golden Tiara
- Halcyon
- June
- Francee
- Patriot
- Regal Splendor
- Frances Williams
- Wide Brim
- Royal Standard
